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guide des acides

12 April 2023

The guide to acids

The guide to acids

Whether in peels or in various treatments, acids are very effective in making "new skin".

There are 3 types of acids that have varying properties.

AHAs or alpha hydroxy acids

These are the famous fruit acids, those suitable for normal to combination skin. They are soluble in water. Among them are:

  • citric acid lemon extract: anti-hyperpigmentation property.
  • Mandelic acid from bitter almond: anti-aging property, anti-blemishes.
  • Malic acid from the apple: it illuminates the complexion, fights the first signs of aging and limits imperfections.
  • Glycolic acid Sugar Cane: Effectively fights hyperpigmentation, age, and even blemishes.
  • Lactic acid from the fermentation of milk: it illuminates the complexion of sensitive skin.

In many peels, these acids are combined for multiplied effectiveness.

BHA or Beta Hydroxyl Acid

There is only one: salicylic acid. It is liposoluble, soluble in fat, which makes it effective on oily skin, to unclog pores for example. It is also excellent for acne-prone skin.

PHA or Poly-Hydroxylated Acid

Their action is softer because their molecules are larger, they are ideal for sensitive skin.

  • Lactobionic acid: antioxidant and anti-aging.
  • Gluconic acid: helps the skin to maintain its hydration while gently exfoliating.

Azelaic acid is considered to be separate, it is a very gentle acid for the skin.

Medium to very deep peels

THE TCA or trichloroacetic acid already have a more abrasive action than the previous ones. They are considered medium peels, but it depends on the concentration. Indeed, beyond 20%, they must be administered by a doctor.

They help fight against wrinkles and fine lines, hyperpigmentation (age spots or sun spots), scars (especially acne).

Be careful, they cause a phenomenon of desquamation of the skin (it peels).

 Choosing a peel

There are two main selection criteria: pH and concentration.

You should know that the pH of the skin is 5.5. A peel with a pH of less than 4.5 is considered acidic and will be more suitable for oily skin. While a peel with a pH of more than 6 will be basic or alkaline and more suitable for oily skin.

Then you will also have to look at the concentration, for a so-called "soft" peel:

  • Between 10 and 35% -depending on the acid of course- the exfoliation will be quite light.
  • Between 35 and 50%, the exfoliation will be medium and will treat skin irregularities more depending on the type of acid chosen.
  • Beyond 50%, the peeling becomes deep, must be performed by a doctor and wrinkles are much reduced.

We have a diverse range of peels depending on your needs:

 

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